CERCETARI PRIVIND OPTIMIZAREA CONSTRUCTIEI IMBRACAMINTEI PENTRU PURTATORI CU DIFERITE TINUTE

Autor/autori: Prof. dr. ing. Emilia FILIPESCU, Dr. ing. Elena SPINACHI, Dr. ing. Sabina OLARU, Ing. Georgeta POPESCU

Rezumat: Complexitatea procesului proiectarii constructive a imbracamintei deriva din faptul ca aceasta utilizeaza un volum mare de informatii initiale, in randul carora cele despre forma si dimensiunile diferitelor regiuni ale corpului uman ocupa un rol deosebit de important. Forma exterioara a corpului uman este determinata in mare masura de pozitia acestuia in statica si mers, caracteristica ce poarta denumirea de tinuta. Aceasta reprezinta un important indicator morfologic, cu o mare variabilitate individuala, ce influenteaza asupra calitatii corespondentei corp-produs in regim static si dinamic. In acest context, lucrarea prezinta evaluarea tinutei corpului la barbati prin prelucrarea matematica a datele primare. In urma studiului s-a elaborat un model matematic de analiza a dimensiunilor secundare curbilinii, influentate de tinuta si pozitia umerilor, ce a permis elaborarea nomogramelor pentru fiecare varianta de corelare testata. Aceste nomograme permit preluarea, pentru valori concrete cunoscute ale diferentelor de pozitie a corpului, respectiv a diferentei de pozitie a umerilor, a variatiei marimii antropometrice curbilinii, considerata variabila dependenta. In aceste conditii, pentru un corp oarecare „j” se poate stabili corect variatia marimilor antropometrice curbilinii influentate de tinuta corpului, respectiv pozitia umerilor, utile pentru adaptarea tiparelor de baza pentru corpuri cu forma exterioara diferita de cea considerata normala. Rezultatele cercetarii se constituie in informatii initiale necesare in activitatea de proiectare constructiva a imbracamintei dupa marimile antropometrice ale utilizatorilor (imbracaminte individualizata).

Cuvinte cheie: indicatori morfologici, tinuta, proiectare, imbracaminte.

Abstract: The complexity of the process of garment constructive design derives from the fact that it uses a larger volume of initial information among those that are about the shape and the dimensions of the various regions of the human body plays an important role. External shape of the human body is largely determined by its position in static and walking, feature that is called posture. This represents an important morphological indicator, with great individual variability, that influences the quality of fitting between the product and human body in static and dynamic. In this context, the paper presents the evaluation of body posture for men by mathematical processing of the raw data. The research developed a mathematical model for analyzing curved side dimensions influenced by posture and shoulder position, which allowed the development of correlation diagrams for each variant tested. These diagrams allow the takeover, for specific values known differences in posture, that the difference in position of the shoulders, a curved anthropometric variation in size, considered the dependent variable. Under these conditions, some body "j" can correctly determine the anthropometric measures variation curves influenced by body posture, or shoulder position, useful to adapt basic patterns with bodies’ external shape different from that considered normal. The research results are in the initial information required in the activity of constructive clothing design based on the anthropometric sizes of the users (customized clothing).

Keywords: morphological indicators, design, dress

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