Marcela IROVAN, Irina TUTUNARU, Daniela FARIMA
Rezumat
Lucrarea propune adaptarea metodei clasice MUPI CAER de proiectare constructivă a îmbrăcămintei [3, 4], pentru construcţia tiparelor de bază a îmbrăcămintei cu destinatie speciala, pe tipuri de produse. Metoda este adaptată la proiectarea îmbrăcămintei de protecţie, in baza existentei unor produse deja proiectate, prin modificarea unor segmente constructive, a principiilor şi adaosurilor utilizate. Astfel, pentru construcţia scurtei speciale de protecţie, se utilizeaza ca tipar iniţial cel al scurtei pentru bărbaţi destinata anotimpului cald [3, 4].Tiparul de bază a pantalonului de protecţie este realizat pe baza tiparului de pantalon clasic [3, 4]. Având în vedere condiţiile de muncă concrete, specificului activitii, tipul şi caracteristicile materialelor textile considerate, au fost stabilite adaosuri de lejeritate pe principalele zone constructive. Din valoarea efectului dinamic, la elaborarea construcţiei s-a determinat valoarea adaosului de lejeritate şi repartizarea acestuia pe zone constructive. In etapa de proiectare constructiva s-a tinut cont de modificarea dimensională a unor segmente corporale, în funcţie de tipul mişcărilor [1, 2, 5, 6].
Cuvinte cheie: proiectare constructivaimbracaminte specialatiparadaosuri
Abstract
The paper proposes to adapt the classical method MUPI CAER of constructive design of clothing [3, 4], for the construction of basic patterns of clothing with special purpose, by product types. The method is adapted to the design of the protective clothing, based on the existence of already designed products, by modifying some constructive segments, of the principles and additions used. Thus, for the construction of the special protective short, the short print for men for the hot season [3, 4] is used as the initial pattern. Considering the concrete working conditions, the specific activity, the type and characteristics of the textile materials considered, lightness additions were established on the main construction areas. From the value of the dynamic effect, the value of the addition of lightness and its distribution by constructive areas were determined when designing the construction. In the constructive design stage, the dimensional modification of some body segments was taken into account, depending on the type of movements [1, 2, 5, 6 ].
Keywords: constructive designspecial clothingprintingadditions
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